Written by Malu Lambert
Excerpt from Inside Guide / Cape Town :: 28 March 2024
Wines making waves on our southern shores
Along the curl of the Atlantic, fresh inspiration surges in from the Cape South Coast wine region. The ocean-infused collection of seven districts includes Elgin, the Overberg, Walker Bay, Swellendam, Lower Duivenhoks, Plettenberg Bay; and as the compass turns to the very edge of the African continent, Cape Agulhas. Generally speaking, the sea-wind-cooled vineyards of the Cape South Coast yield grapes that speak of their liminal origins, faceted with crystalline acidities and mineral freshness. The ocean acts as an almost constant air-conditioner, honing acidity and concentrating flavours from the inevitable longer hang-times this commands. Add to that ancient, poor soils and you have some of the toughest conditions for grape-growing in the Cape, and the wines are all the finer for it.
Explore these Cape South Coast wine districts:
ELGIN
Known to insiders as “little Burgundy” for its similarly cool climate (the coolest in South Africa) as well as its star grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir. Add to this many high-altitude and dryland farmed vineyards; Elgin is never short of rain. Aromatic varieties such as sauvignon blanc and riesling also fare well.
Paul Clüver Estate
“Incredible chardonnay and pinot noir,” champions fourth-generation farmer-proprietor Paul Clüver when asked what makes his family brand special. The home of the wine, De Rust farm, goes back to 1896 when their first generation began farming in Elgin. Enjoy the tasting room, inside with a fireplace in the winter, or outside under the oaks when the sun is shining. The Clüver Restaurant serves tapas made from ingredients sourced locally as well as from their garden.
| Wine | Paul Clüver Estate Chardonnay 2020 Silk and cool sunshine unwinds with a rainbow of citrus, complemented by hints of honeyed brioche. |
| Opening times | Mon-Thurs: 08h00-17h00 / Fri-Sun: 09h00-16h00 |
| Contact | 021 844 0605 / info@cluver.com |
| Where to find it | N2, Kromco turn-off, De Rust Estate, Grabouw |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Iona Wines
“It’s the coolest, highest winery in Elgin with a view over the whole valley,” enthuses proprietor Andrew Gunn about his vineyard rooted 420m above sea level. Married to fine artist Rozy, who has not only lent her eye to the grounds and tasting room (expect arresting art aplenty), but she has also taken the charge of the farming and works closely with the viticultural team. Iona focuses on producing age-worthy, elegant sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir.
| Wine | Iona Elgin Highlands Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Spontaneously fermented in foudre allows this cool terroir to shine. White pear, peach and blackcurrant glide to a pinpoint dry finish. |
| Opening times | Mon-Fri: 09h00-16h00 |
| Contact | 028 284 9678 |
| Where to find it | Highlands Road, Elgin Valley |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Almenkerk
Set into the mountainside the tasting room and wine cellar is a stunning feat of modern wine architecture, allowing for unencumbered valley views. Family run, Joris and Natalie van Almenkerk are involved in every aspect of the business. Cameron Corney is their new winemaker, while Famous is famous for his warm welcoming smile at the chic tasting room.
| Wine | Almenkerk Chardonnay 2019 Minimalist winemaking techniques (wild yeast) and 10 months on the lees adds creamy backbone to radiant citrus. |
| Opening times | Tue-Sat: 10h00-16h00 |
| Contact | 021 848 9844 |
| Where to find it | 50 Viljoenshoop Road, Grabouw |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Oak Valley Estate
The gracious and sprawling Oak Valley was founded in 1898 by Sir Antonie Viljoen, who planted the seed of apple farming in Elgin – still the most commercially successful crop of the region. Over a century later apples are still farmed here, along with pears, greenhouse cut-flowers and, of course, award-winning wines. The farm is also well-known for its challenging MTB trails. Invites winemaker Jacques du Plessis: “In the shade of our ancient oak trees, we welcome guests to our tasting room and restaurant where you can enjoy our cool climate line-up of chardonnays and pinot noirs alongside the wonderful menu of The Melting Pot.”
| Wine | Groenlandberg Chardonnay 2022 Made from vineyards found high up on the Groenlandberg Mountain; flint, sea-breeze is balanced by tangy stone fruit intensity. |
| Opening times | Mon-Fri: 09h00-17h00 / Sat-Sun: 10h00-16h00 |
| Contact | 021 859 2510 |
| Where to find it | 127 Oak Ave, Grabouw |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
THE OVERBERG
While the term ‘the Overberg’ is often used as a catch-all for many South Coast districts, it is indeed a separate entity. The Overberg comprises the Elandskloof/Kaaimansgat, Theewater, Greyton and Klein River. While there aren’t many actual wineries within this designated zone, the premium quality of grapes grown here sees them in high demand from other producers.
Lismore Estate Vineyards
“Wine of Origin Greyton was created because of Lismore,” shares winemaker-owner Samantha O’Keefe. Another thing she is proud of she says is “we’re an all women team”. Originally from California, O’Keefe saw the potential for producing distinct wines from this terroir due to its “extreme cool climate, which produced really individual wines”. She qualifies this by saying there is snow on the farm in the winter coupled with low-ripening temperatures in summer. Her wines have been widely critically acclaimed.
| Wine | Lismore Estate Reserve Viognier 2021 Roundly touted as the best viognier in South Africa, the 2021 vintage doesn’t disappoint, think honeysuckle, peaches and ginger along a taut framework of saline acidity. |
| Opening times | Mon + Wed-Sat: 10h00-16h00 |
| Contact | query@lismore.co.za |
| Where to find it | Tasting Room: 13 DS Botha Street, Oak & Vigne Courtyard, Greyton |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Thamnus Wines
Found sprawled under the dramatic Klein River mountains, Thamnus Wines focuses on just chardonnay and pinot noir. The 10-hectares of vineyards are regeneratively farmed using grazing sheep to suppress weeds, aerate the soil and allow cover crops to grow. A holistic farm offering, there is also free-range lamb, olive oil and fynbos honey available. Currently the manor house is being restored for an accommodation offering, expected in April 2024.
| Wine | Thamnus Pinot Noir 2021 Like sun-warmed earth, cedar and brambleberries, this evocative wine is complex and inviting, framed in fine-grained tannins. |
| Opening times | Tastings by appointment |
| Contact | 076 632 8002 / admin@thamnuswines.co.za |
| Where to find it | Off the R320 (Hemel-en-Aarde Road), near Caledon |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
WALKER BAY
Named for Admiral Sir Baldwin Wake Walker who joined the Royal Navy at just 10-years–old, this long and sea-infused district begins in Bot River and winds its way along the coast, including the wards of: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, Stanford Foothills, Sunday’s Glen and Springfontein Rim.
Beaumont Family Wines
Established in the 1700s, this Bot River farm is home to the area’s oldest wine cellar (as well as the country’s oldest watermill). The Beaumont family have been its custodians since 1974. “We have the oldest vineyards in the Cape South Coast, too” says winemaker Sebastian Beaumont. “We also pioneered syrah, mourvèdre and cabernet franc in this region,” he adds. Soak in all this heritage at the authentic Overberg farm with its whitewashed walls and black tin roofs. Relax in the country-chic tasting room, enjoy the seasonal, farm-fresh menu from the Zest Deli & Kitchen; and you can stay over in one of the restored self-catering cottages.
| Wine | Beaumont New Baby 2021 “A no rules blend” of chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, and colombar tastes like scooped sunshine and lemon sorbet; barrel ageing adds depth and spice along its electric spine. |
| Opening times | Mon-Fri: 09h00-16h30 / Sat-Sun: 10h00-15h00 |
| Contact | 066 521 8155 / info@beaumont.co.za |
| Where to find it | Compagnes Drift Farm, Bot River |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Gabriëlskloof Wines
Multi-award-winning winemaker Peter-Allan Finlayson says he never gets bored of the mesmeric views of rolling hills surrounding Gabriëlskloof. When it comes to preserving this natural beauty they play an active role as a Biodiversity and Wine Champion for their vineyard and cellar practices, and their wines are correspondingly fine. On-site restaurant Farro is just the place to take in those spell-binding views, with cuisine described as ‘classic-meets-comfort’. Gabriëlskloof Extra Virgin Olive Oil is available from the estate, too.
| Wine | Syrah on Shale 2021 From a single Bokkeveld shale site; violets, black olives, and spice. Jewelled dark fruit on the palate is laced with a crystalline acidity. |
| Opening times | Mon-Sun: 09h00-17h00 |
| Contact | 028 284 9865 / info@gabrielskloof.co.za |
| Where to find it | R43, Bot River |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Newton Johnson Family Vineyards
Curving up the famous Hemel-en-Aarde Road, from the blue sea up to the blue, blue sky, you can see where this beautiful valley gets its name from (it means heaven and earth). Newton Johnson is one of the original wine farms of the region, established in 1995. Run now by sons Bevan and Gordon, they have taken their parents’ passion for pinot and chardonnay to the next level. You’ll be forgiven for wanting to linger a bit longer and The Restaurant at Newton Johnson affords this with fine, contemporary cuisine to complement the estate’s wines. Gordon Newton Johnson says paramount for them is: “Purity of expression of the wines.”
| Wine | Newton Johnson Albariño 2021 While most certainly specialists in the Burgindian varieties, this unusual grape (for South Africa) has been done justice, with its peachy stone fruit and sea-washed salinity. |
| Opening times | Mon-Fri: 09h00-16h00 / Sat: 10h00-15h00 |
| Contact | 028 312 3862 / wine@newtonjohnson.com |
| Where to find it | R320 (Hemel-en-Aarde Road), Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Hermanus |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Creation Wines
“Creation’s fine wine alchemy is a rare blend of art, science, our people and a sense of place,” says owner Carolyn Martin. This high-altitude estate sits snug against the mountain and is absolutely threaded with fynbos. While a wine tasting on its own is simply spectacular, they have made an art of their food and wine pairings. Try the Serendipity Wine and Food Pairing Menu, comprising six courses. Also available is an à la carte menu, as well as breakfast. There’s accommodation too, in the form of the luxurious Die Voormanshuis farm cottage, for two guests.
| Wine | Creation Reserve Pinot Noir 2022 Effortless red berried succulence cossested in satiny-smooth tannins. This wine glows. |
| Opening times | Mon-Sun: 09h00-17h00 |
| Contact | 028 212 1107 |
| Where to find it | R320 (Hemel-en-Aarde Road), Hermanus |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
Springfontein Wine Estate
A monopole, Springfontein has its own designated ward called Springfontein Rim, set apart for its preponderance of limestone soil. The focus is organic, zeroing in on heritage grapes chenin blanc and pinotage. There are a host of activities to enjoy: from the Ulumbaza Wine Bar(n) and the fine-dining restaurant, Wortelgat, to farm-style accommodation as well as boat cruises.
| Wine | Terroir Selection Chenel 2021 Chenel, the offspring of chenin and ugni blanc. Gentle stone fruit aromatics evolve, supported by a leesy, salty complexity. |
| Opening times | Mon-Sun: 11h00-21h00 |
| Contact | 028 341 0651 |
| Where to find it | 8 Wortelgat Road, Stanford |
| CLICK HERE TO BUY |
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